A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Up Down

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A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Up/Down

On 17th July A. Lange & Sohne in collaboration with Sincere Watches held a presentation for the Datograph Up/Down. The event took place at Bridge Bar, G-Tower Hotel in Kuala Lumpur.

The Datograph Up/Down is one of Lange’s highlights at SIHH 2012 earlier this year. It is an update of Lange’s iconic chronograph timepiece first launched in 1999 to much acclaim amongst horological purists worldwide. The original Datograph introduced the now famous L951.1 in-house manual wind chronograph movement and helped to launch the industry wide trend towards manufacture chronograph movements.

The new model is an evolution of the classic Datograph and incorporates many refinements and improvements.

As with the classic Datograph the watch case is made from Platinum, a precious metal worthy of the finest timepieces from Lange Uhren. The case diameter and thickness has grown incrementally to 41mm and 13.1mm from 39mm and 12.8mm respectively.

A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Up/Down

A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Up/Down

On the dial the big date apertures have been enlarged approximately 4% to keep up with the bigger case diameter, and the Roman numeral hour markers found in the original Datograph have been replaced with baton style markers.

A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Up/Down

A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Up/Down – Big Date Aperture

And as suggested by the new model name there is now a power reserve indicator located at the 6 o’clock  position. The German terms “AUF/AB “(Up/Down) are used to indicate the 2 extreme states of the power reserve.

A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Up/Down

A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Up/Down – Power Reserve Indicator

The new calibre L951.6 has also been upgraded with numerous improvements. The power reserve has been increased to 60 hours from the L951.1’s 36 hours, courtesy of a larger and improved mainspring barrel. Lange Uhren has also equipped the new movement with in-house Lange balance wheel and hairspring. The new Lange manufacture balance wheel comes with eccentric poising weights which allow more precise adjustments.

Despite the incremental updates to the new movement, Lange Uhren has maintained the exquisite engraving, decoration and finishing found in the classic L951.1, ensuring that the title of the “most beautiful chronograph movement ever made” safely remains with the Datograph Up/Down.

A. Lange & Sohne Datograph

A. Lange & Sohne Datograph – Calibre L951.6

Given the legendary status of the classic Datograph, the new replacement model from Lange Uhren had a lot to live up to. Fortunately the new A. Lange Datograph Up/Down, with its numerous incremental updates and improvements, has not only met but also managed to exceed the high expectations of purists and truly deserves to be recognised as the worthy successor to its illustrious predecessor.

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Online marketplace for Malaysian Horology Enthusiasts and fine Timepiece Collectors

There is now an active online marketplace for Malaysian Horology enthusiasts and watch collectors to hunt for fine timepieces. Malaysia Watch Forum’s Merchant Sales Corner is a one stop destination for online merchants/dealers to offer their products ranging from pre-owned timepieces to various watch accessories.

For Malaysia Watch Forum registered members there’s a special Members’ Pre-Owned Watches section for MWF members to buy/sell/trade pre-owned timepieces. Currently it is only accessible to registered members when they login to the forum.

As an indication to the quality of the merchandise on offer, one of the highlights currently available for sale is this pre-owned Omega-First Series of the Central Tourbillon No11, available at the Merchants’ Corner.

Omega-First Series of the Central Tourbillon No11

Omega-First Series of the Central Tourbillon No11

Generally the sellers are very friendly and prospective buyers in Malaysia can often arrange to view the watches before making a purchase decision. Validation of watches can usually be arranged also, giving peace of mind to any collector planning to make a substantial investment in fine timepieces.

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Dievas TimeAttack Chronograph – A brief review

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The Dievas TimeAttack chronograph is Dievas Uhren Technik’s first effort at offering a tactical chronograph which combines excellent German craftsmanship with one of the finest Swiss automatic chronograph movements.

The watch proudly display the label “Made in Germany” on its dial, which means that a substantial portion of the manufacturing process is carried out in Germany. True to its German roots the TimeAttack comes with a very well machined watch case featuring Dievas’s proprietary 6Steel technology.

The 6Steel hardening process provided the SS316L watch case with a surface hardness of 1300 Hv ensuring a scratch resistant end-user experience. According to Dievas, for the Timeattack model, the 6Steel technology is used not only on the watch case but is also used to harden the crown, chronograph pushers, case back and rotating bezel.

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Openmovement.org – Android for timepieces anyone?

I came across this ambitious initiative (hat tip to EHF Live!) to raise funds for an open source watch movement design. (Note that the website is available only in German and French, so you’ll need Google Translate to decipher the content)

I believe this is in response to ETA’s plans to curb supply of watch movements to the watchmaking industry and, if successful, it will presumably provide an affordable watch movement which can be adopted by watchmaking companies. Great way for the smaller independent brands to break away from ETA’s shackles.

Smartphone fans will note that this is actually the same model adopted by Google to promote Android and it has succeeded beyond their wildest imagination. So if this initiative does take off with the right funding (wonder if Google is keen to participate in this?) then ETA had better watch out.

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An Interesting Chat with Cyrus Watches MD Laurent Lecamp

Last week I was invited by Luxury Concepts to a presentation by Laurent Lecamp, Managing Director of Cyrus Watches. The preview session, held at the Khronos Boutique – Starhill Gallery, was very enlightening with an artful presentation by Laurent and his passion and enthusiasm for the brand is simply infectious, to say the least.

Cyrus Watches is jointly founded by Laurent and Julien Lecamp, and currently is one of the youngest and most exciting Swiss luxury watch brand. And seemingly to prove this point, a few days after the chat with Laurent, I received news that Cyrus has won the “Best Independent Brand” at the Nuit de l’Horlogerie Monaco 2011 held at the Grimaldi Forum, Monaco.

When Laurent and Julien founded the company, they chose the name Cyrus in honor of Cyrus the Great who ruled the Persian Empire 2500 years ago. To serve as a link to Cyrus the Great’s illustrious history, Laurent always carries with him an authentic ancient gold coin minted during that era.

Cyrus’s ancient Gold Coin depicting the Lion and the Bull locked in eternal battle.

There are currently two watch collections being offered by Cyrus, namely the Kuros and the Klepcys. I had the privilege to play around with watches from both collections and below is a brief description of these wonderful Cyrus timepieces and some pictures taken during the preview session.

The Kuros collection consists of 6 different models in a limited production run of 188 pieces per model. The Kuros timepiece is a chronograph watch based on ETA 2094 movement. The three sub-dials located at the 3-6-9 position indicates the running second, 30 minute totalizer and 12 hour totalizer. The A.R. coated sapphire crystal is beautifully curved in double angle (from 6-12 and 3-9 directions).

Picture of Kuros Ref 598.001A

The watch case is made of Titanium Grade 2 and is beautifully sculpted in 3 Dimensions to hug the wrist. The Titanium case finishing consists of satin, polished edges and sand blasted surface. The large knurled crown is signed with the Cyrus insignia. Continue reading

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Introducing the Ennebi Fondale Vintage Collection

Ennebi is an Italian company located in Florence, specializing in mechanical watches and precision instruments. It was founded in 2004 by Alessandro Bettarini and Luciano Nincheri, with the intention of preserving the Florentine watch making tradition which suffered a setback when Officine Panerai was acquired by the Vendome Group in 1997. (Currently Officine Panerai may be headquartered in Florence, Italy but Panerai watches are no longer manufactured there. The watch manufacturing division of Panerai is based in Neuchatel, Switzerland.)

Alessandro Bettarini held the position of manager of mechanical planning and technical drawing section of Officine Panerai in Italy, and played a lead role in the design and development of Panerai timepieces. Through him the Ennebi Fondale can trace its design roots back to the one of the protoype Italian naval dive watches by Panerai.

Italian naval dive watch prototype

The Ennebi Fondale is the first fruit of Ennebi’s labour and to this day remains its best selling model. The design of the Ennebi Fondale draws on its Italian naval dive watch heritage, and remains true to its Tuscan roots with emphasis on the watch case design and manufacturing. The bold masculine design of the Ennebi Fondale with its generously proportioned watch case and its minimalist but highly legible dial design exhibits the unmistakable Italian design flair which gave the world classic design icons such as the Ferrari, Maserati and Lamborghini sports cars.  Continue reading

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My favourite Rolex from Basel 2011 – Explorer II Reference 216570

New Rolex Explorer II

Rolex has been known to move at a glacial pace when it comes to upgrading their sports models. This is especially true over the past few years as they gradually introduced new upgraded/improved versions of their ever popular sports models such as the GMT II, Submariner, Sea-dweller and the Explorer I. Each year at Basel the Rolex world held their breath in anticipation of the unveiling of a new Sports model from Rolex.

2011, being the 40th anniversary of the launch of the 1655 Rolex Explorer II, has been widely expected to be the year of the Explorer II and Rolex certainly did not disappoint. Across the world, Rolex fans were (very) pleasantly surprised when the Rolex finally unveiled the new Explorer II (Reference 216570).

The 216570 break new grounds for Rolex in so many ways. Let’s start with the case which was enlarged from the traditional (for Rolex) 40mm diameter to 42mm diameter. This makes the new Explorer II the second biggest watch in Rolex’s Sports collection, the largest being the DeepSea which measures 44mm in diameter. As part of the upgrade the 216570 also got the latest movement, caliber 3187, which comes with the non-magnetic blue Parachrom hairspring and the Paraflex anti-shock mechanism. Another first for Rolex is the introduction of anti reflective coating on the watch sapphire crystal. In addition the new Explorer II also received the standard upgrade packages such as the maxi-dial, orange 24 hour hand and the longer lasting Chromalight lume.

Truly Rolex is to be congratulated for getting everything right with the 2011 Explorer II model. With so many nice new features and improvements, what’s not to like about the new Explorer II from Rolex.

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Tag Heuer Carrera Featuring Caliber 1887 – A Watch Review

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Introduction:

In 2010 Tag Heuer celebrated the 150th anniversary of its founding by releasing a new in-house manufactured chronograph movement called Caliber 1887. It was first officially announced to great fanfare at Basel World 2010.

The design of the Caliber 1887 is based on IP (TC78) licensed from Seiko instruments Inc. of Japan. The same design has been used in Seiko’s 6S37 chronograph movement found in Seiko’s Phoenix Brightz and Flightmaster chronographs.

Apparently one of the reasons this particular Seiko design was chosen is because of its use of the oscillating pinion, a technology first patented by Edouard Heuer in 1887, hence the name of the caliber.

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Awards:

Tag Heuer Caliber 1887 won the prestigious “La Petite Aiguille” (Small seconds hand ) for Best Watch of the Year Award (under $5000 category) at the 2010 Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève.

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Tag Heuer Boutique KLCC – Grand Opening

A bunch of Malaysia Watch Forum members (including yours truly) attended the Grand Opening of the new Tag Heuer Boutique at KLCC on 10th March 2011. It was an important PR event for Tag Heuer graced by the attendance of the Tag Heuer President & CEO Jean-Christophe Babin and Bollywood celebrity & Tag Heuer Ambassador Datuk Shah Rukh Khan.

More detailed report can be found on this MWF thread.
(Images by Chiewata)

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Chinese New Year Greetings – 2011

Chinese New Year is here again. Here’s wishing everyone a happy and prosperous Lunar New Year.

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